Hi Kim. Moncler celebrates 70 years in Piazza del Duomo, Blazy at Bottega Veneta continues to amaze, and Maximilian Davis debuts at Ferragamo. Everything that happened on day 4 of MFW.
The fourth day of Milan Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2023, Sept. 24, is dedicated to a return to the roots. An air of revival is in the air at Saturday's fashion shows, the penultimate MFW event: taking the city and the stage is Kim Kardashian's landing at Dolce&Gabbana as a designer, with a collection that reinterprets the Maison's archive. Moncler's 70th anniversary celebrations pass through Piazza del Duomo, with an emotional show open to the public. And while Matthieu Blazy's journey from Bottega Veneta continues to impress, newcomers at Bally and Salvatore Ferragamo show familiarity with heritage.
There are those who make surprise appearances (see Paris Hilton at Versace) and those who prepare to rise. Like Kim Kardashian, whose arrival in Milan for Dolce&Gabbana has been announced since the early days of MFW with teaser videos and targeted images-not to mention her sister Kourtney's designer wedding in Portofino in May 2022.
Hello Kim, and Milan goes into turmoil: but if this was to be expected, with crowds of onlookers outside the brand's outposts, no one could have imagined the star in the shoes of a meticulous archival designer. In fact, the fashion house's show at the Metropol sees not only the entire clan in the front row and Kim Kardashian at the end of the runway with the duo in a long black crystal-clad gown, but above all a roundup of looks from the archives of the 1990s and 2000s reinterpreted by the diva together with the designers and marked by a special tag with the actual year of birth.
Dolce&Gabbana's Spring-Summer 2023 line is thus transformed into a fascinating reinterpretation of the Maison's vast codes, with a modern diva's touch: the classic long sheath dress from 1997-98 is worn with second-skin long gloves, the tuxedo suit with tie from the Nineties is transformed into a blazer dress, the slim fit jeans from the 2000s are dressed in black lace and worn with the shiny bodysuit with crystal-covered splints.
The most sparkling is her, in the role of curator of a special collection, the purpose of which is to enhance the heritage of the Italian brand and at the same time female beauty. Successful goal.
How are you doing? All is well at Bottega Veneta
We are all different. A bit like the 400 resin-soaked cotton canvas chairs designed by Gaetano Pesce and the colorful floor adorning the location of Bottega Veneta's Spring-Summer 2023 fashion show. The installation How are you? is the sophisticated and classy artistic touch (the works will be offered for sale by the Maison) that hovers over Matthieu Blazy's new trial at the helm of the brand. A confirmation of style, encapsulated in a few select details: the denim-effect coated leather, the big shirts with the plaid pattern (and worn on the runway by Kate Moss), the long and precious bangs that give movement, the knitwear with a frothy effect.
A luxurious wardrobe with everyday appeal, the secret of its success, which passes, as always, through the accessories section, made even more desirable thanks to the new revival of archival models that focus everything on intrecciato, the brand's must-have.
The new course of Salvatore Ferragamo, Bally and Trussardi
He who leaves the old way for the new, knows what he leaves, and does not know what he finds. The motto sounds like a warning whenever a new designer debuts at the helm of brands with a very long history. Such is the case with Salvatore Ferragamo, which at MFW is presenting its first line designed by Maximilian Davis in the setting of the former Archbishop's Seminary, soon to be Portrait Milano. The black designer beloved by Rihanna dusts off the brand's more Hollywood era, looking back to the beginning of Salvatore's journey. The new Hollywood Ferragamo 2022? It demonstrates a fresh approach to wardrobe and accessories: flashes of Ferragamo lacquer red, crystals that recall the sparkle of the red shoes created in 1959 for Marilyn Monroe, and fetish touches illuminate leather, knitwear, and draped dresses, making them contemporary. The legendary Wanda bag, created in 1988, is reinterpreted with new proportions. "I went through the archive and chose what could be redefined to become relevant in the present," comments the designer.
The 26-year-old British designer is not the only one taking his first steps on Day 4 of Milan Fashion Week 2022. Bally also welcomes new creative director Rhuigi Villasenor, former founder and ceo of the Rhude brand since 2015. For his debut, the designer interprets heritage with an unprecedented hyper glamorous flair, from the star-studded front row led by Mahmood and Ariana Grande to the runway focused on total denim looks, wrap-around knit dresses, suede pants, robes and pajama suits. The mood is rock and nonconformist, marking a turn of panache in the very long history of the Swiss brand, founded in 1851.
Instead, the journey of Benjamin A. Huseby & Serhat Işık at the helm of Trussardi: the second collection signed by the duo immediately appears more conscious. Merit for the reinterpretation and research work that brings a touch of magic to the Maison's restructuring: a woman who ranges with her wardrobe between utility contaminations, shiny leather and petticoat dresses parades at Palazzo Clerici. Minimal and unprejudiced together.
Moncler, the return of Maya
70 years of Moncler down jackets. An anniversary that Remo Ruffini's Maison, despite the bad weather, could only celebrate in a big way with an event open to the public, Extraordiinary Forever, in Milan's most beloved square, that of the Duomo. The live performance, opened by Teatro alla Scala prima ballerina Virna Toppi, unveiled an exceptional cast of 1952 talents. A tribute precisely to the year Moncler was founded, as well as to the legendary Paninari jacket, that Maya jacket that those born in the Eighties still have in their closets.
The reinterpretation, a bomber jacket in shiny optical white with a new and old-fashioned logo, won the spotlight worn by 700 dancers, 200 musicians, 100 choristers and 952 models. After the performance, a shower, this time fake, of white confetti. Applauding them, in addition to the crowd that flocked to the surroundings of Piazza del Duomo, were Italian actress Matilde Gioli and rapper Pharrell Williams.
The confirmations of Jil Sander, Ermanno Scervino and Msgm
In a garden built in a field between Novegro and Linate, in the rain, Jil Sander's fashion show is staged. The umbrella-wearing models of Lucie and Luke Meier, led by Bella Hadid, bring to the stage a wardrobe of contrasts and fusions, of archetypes and novelties, that looks to warm, Californian atmospheres. The leaden sky helps the pieces of the collection stand out, studied and tailored as always but more colorful than usual, thanks to touches of lilac, peach, light blue and lime. The minimal wardrobe lights up thanks to small crystals, raw cuts and cut-outs. Wearable deconstructions of rigorous and sophisticated design: yet another confirmation of good taste.
Ermanno Scervino also returns to dream, with a Spring-Summer 2023 collection that is a hymn to beauty. For the season, the designer expands his horizons with new shades juxtaposed with traditional black and white, embracing baby pink, citrine yellow and light blue. The protagonists of a women's wardrobe that increasingly ranges between leather bustier dresses, nylon maxi bomber jackets, embellished knitwear, rose embroidery and micro sequins.
Romantic with style, like Msgm's latest proof, poetic and at the same time ironic. Forever, Always, Forever Massimo Giorgetti's woman captivates by the simplicity with which she carries each wardrobe variation, from halter jumpsuit to micro dress, from parisians to tattered denim. The seasonal obsession, femme fatale lace.
Written by Michael Zippo
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